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With Nathan off to work, I returned to the double-decker bus stop and to the Roman National Museum. I planned to climb the museum stairs and do the self-guided audio tour, then conquer the steeper and more famous Holy Stairs next door. The Holy Stairs lead up to St. Maria church. If you imagine that stair scene from Rocky and the astronomical level of flexibility and fitness required to scale it, then you're on the money. As I climbed the first set of stairs, I wished I had